The Most Famous Rock Climbing Routes in Frankenjura

The Most Famous Rock Climbing Routes in Frankenjura

Frankenjura, located in Bavaria, Germany, is renowned for its breathtaking rock climbing routes that attract adventurers from all over the world. With its unique limestone formations and challenging routes, Frankenjura offers an exhilarating experience for climbers of all levels. From the iconic "Action Directe" to the adrenaline-pumping "Silence," this article explores some of the most famous rock climbing routes in Frankenjura, providing insights into their difficulty levels, historic significance, and the stunning landscapes they traverse. Whether you are a seasoned climber looking for your next challenge or a beginner eager to embark on an unforgettable adventure, Frankenjura has something to offer for everyone.

History of Rock Climbing in Frankenjura

Early Developments

The history of rock climbing in Frankenjura dates back to the early 20th century. However, it wasn’t until the 1970s that the region gained recognition as a world-class climbing destination. During this time, a group of passionate climbers began exploring the limestone cliffs and establishing the first routes.

Development of Sport Climbing

The development of sport climbing in Frankenjura can be attributed to the efforts of Wolfgang Güllich, a legendary German climber. In the 1980s, Güllich introduced a new style of climbing that relied on bolts and fixed anchors, making it possible to climb the challenging limestone walls. This innovation revolutionized the sport and attracted climbers from all over the world to Frankenjura.

Famous Climbers of Frankenjura

Frankenjura has been home to numerous talented climbers who have left their mark on the sport. One of the most prominent figures is Alex Megos, a German climber known for his impressive speed and strength. Megos has set numerous records and achieved groundbreaking ascents in Frankenjura and beyond.

Another notable climber from Frankenjura is Ines Papert, a highly accomplished female climber. Papert has conquered some of the most difficult routes in the region, showcasing her exceptional skill and determination.

These climbers, along with many others, have contributed to the fame and reputation of Frankenjura as a top-notch rock climbing destination. Their achievements continue to inspire and attract climbers of all levels to explore the challenging routes of this scenic region.

Classic Rock Climbing Routes

The Devil’s Finger

One of the most iconic rock climbing routes in Frankenjura is The Devil’s Finger. This route is known for its challenging and technical nature, attracting climbers from all around the world. The Devil’s Finger offers a thrilling experience with its steep walls and intricate movements. Climbers have to navigate through small crimps and delicate foot placements to conquer this legendary route. It requires a high level of strength, endurance, and mental focus. The Devil’s Finger is a true test of a climber’s skills and is often considered a rite of passage for those seeking to push their limits.

Action Directe

Action Directe is another renowned rock climbing route in Frankenjura that has gained legendary status among climbers. This route was first established by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 and was the world’s first route with a proposed grade of 9a (UIAA scale). Action Directe is characterized by its overhanging limestone wall and intense, powerful moves. Climbers must possess exceptional finger strength, precise footwork, and exceptional body control to conquer this challenging route. It has become a benchmark for hard sport climbing and continues to inspire and challenge climbers to this day.

Silent Spring

Silent Spring is a classic rock climbing route that offers a unique and exhilarating experience in Frankenjura. This route is known for its sustained difficulty and delicate, technical sequences. Climbers must navigate through small crimps, pockets, and slopers while maintaining balance and control. Silent Spring demands precision and finesse, making it a favorite among climbers who enjoy intricate movement and mental challenges. The beauty of this route lies in its intricate sequences and the satisfaction that comes with successfully completing its demanding sections.

These classic rock climbing routes in Frankenjura offer a range of challenges for climbers of all levels. Whether you’re a seasoned climber looking to push your limits or a beginner seeking to improve your skills, these routes provide an exciting and rewarding experience in the world of rock climbing.

Popular Bouldering Areas


One of the most popular bouldering areas in Frankenjura is Walberla. Located near the village of Kirchehrenbach, Walberla offers a wide range of bouldering routes suitable for climbers of all levels. The sandstone formations in this area provide excellent grip and interesting challenges for boulderers. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced climber, you will find plenty of routes to test your skills. The scenic beauty of the surrounding landscapes only adds to the overall experience of bouldering at Walberla.


Another renowned bouldering area in Frankenjura is Schlossberg. Situated near the town of Hirschaid, Schlossberg attracts climbers from all over due to its unique rock formations and diverse routes. This area offers a mix of both easy and more challenging bouldering options, making it suitable for climbers of different abilities. The sandstone rocks at Schlossberg provide excellent friction, allowing climbers to make precise movements and conquer the various problems set along the routes. Additionally, the beautiful views from the top of the boulders make Schlossberg a favorite spot for many climbers.


Bärenschlucht is another must-visit bouldering area in Frankenjura. Located near the small town of Streitberg, Bärenschlucht is known for its steep and challenging routes which require both strength and technique. The rock formations at Bärenschlucht offer a variety of interesting holds and dynamic movements, making it a favorite among experienced climbers. The dense forest surrounding the bouldering area adds to the adventurous ambiance, providing a serene and natural setting for climbers to enjoy. If you are looking for a thrilling bouldering experience in Frankenjura, Bärenschlucht should definitely be on your list.

These popular bouldering areas in Frankenjura, including Walberla, Schlossberg, and Bärenschlucht, offer a diverse range of routes and challenges for climbers of all levels. Whether you are seeking easy bouldering problems or testing your skills on more difficult routes, these areas provide ample opportunities to enjoy the sport amidst beautiful natural surroundings.

The Frankenjura region in Germany is a haven for rock climbers, offering a diverse range of challenging routes and breathtaking scenery. From the iconic limestone cliffs to the historic crags, this article has explored some of the most famous rock climbing routes in Frankenjura. Whether you’re a seasoned climber or a beginner looking to test your skills, these routes offer something for everyone. So grab your gear, pack your determination, and get ready to conquer the cliffs of Frankenjura. With its rich climbing history and stunning landscapes, it’s no wonder why this region is a must-visit destination for rock climbers around the world.