Off The Anchor

This is by far the simplest belay escape scenario. When giving a top-rope belay to a climber directly off the anchor, the belayer has already accomplished step 2 in the basic process-he or she has already transferred the load to the anchor. Because this is often the most complicated, time-consuming, and dangerous step, it is one more good reason to consider belaying the second off the anchor whenever possible.

Regardless of the device used – Munter hitch, Petzl Gri Gri, belay plate, or tube-the steps to escape this belay is always the same:

1. Block the belay with a mule knot.

2. Tie a backup overhand or figure eight loop and clip it to the anchor with a locking carabiner.