Indoor Climbing Techniques for Advanced Climbers

Indoor Climbing Techniques for Advanced Climbers

Are you an experienced climber looking to take your indoor climbing skills to the next level? In this article, we will explore advanced techniques and strategies that will help you improve your climbing performance and conquer challenging routes. Whether you are a seasoned climber looking to push your limits or a competitor aiming to dominate the competition, these tips and tricks will help you reach new heights in your climbing journey.

Advanced Techniques for Indoor Climbing

Campus Board Training

Campus board training is a great way for advanced climbers to improve their finger strength and power. This technique involves using a campus board, which is a series of small wooden rungs or edges mounted on a wall. Climbers can perform various exercises on the campus board, such as dead hangs, pull-ups, and dynamic movements. By incorporating campus board training into their climbing routine, advanced climbers can increase their finger strength and improve their ability to make dynamic moves on the wall.

Dyno Moves

Dyno moves, short for dynamic moves, are a fun and exciting technique that advanced climbers can use to reach holds that are out of reach. Dyno moves involve jumping or lunging from one hold to another, often with a quick and explosive movement. This technique requires good coordination, timing, and power. By practicing dyno moves, advanced climbers can improve their ability to make dynamic movements on the wall and reach holds that may seem impossible to reach.

Flagging and Smearing

Flagging and smearing are two advanced climbing techniques that can help climbers maintain balance and stability on the wall. Flagging involves extending one leg out to the side or behind to counterbalance the body’s weight and prevent swinging. Smearing involves using the friction of the climbing shoe against the wall to gain traction on smooth surfaces. By mastering flagging and smearing techniques, advanced climbers can improve their footwork and overall climbing efficiency.

Advanced Climbing Holds and Grips

For advanced climbers looking to take their indoor climbing skills to the next level, mastering a variety of holds and grips is essential. In this article, we will explore some of the most challenging holds and grips that advanced climbers may encounter on their climbing journey.

Sloper Holds

Sloper holds are characterized by their lack of positive edges or grips, requiring climbers to rely on friction and body tension to maintain their grip. To effectively conquer sloper holds, climbers must focus on distributing their weight evenly across the hold and engaging their core muscles to stay balanced. Developing finger strength and body positioning are key components to successfully navigating sloper holds.

Pinch Grips

Pinch grips require climbers to squeeze the hold between their thumb and fingers, creating a pinching motion to maintain control. These holds can be particularly challenging for climbers with smaller hands, as they require a strong grip and precise hand placement. To improve pinch grip strength, climbers can incorporate specific exercises such as pinch blocks or hangboard training into their climbing routine.

Gaston Moves

Gaston moves are a type of climbing technique that involves pushing against two opposing holds, creating outward pressure with the arms. This move can be especially useful for navigating overhangs or traverses where body positioning is crucial. To execute a gaston move effectively, climbers must maintain tension in their core and engage their shoulders and biceps to push against the holds.

By mastering these advanced climbing holds and grips, climbers can enhance their overall climbing performance and tackle more challenging routes with confidence. Practice, dedication, and a willingness to push past comfort zones are key elements to progressing as an advanced climber.

Advanced Climbing Strategies

Route Reading

One of the key skills that advanced climbers must possess is the ability to effectively read a climbing route. This involves analyzing the holds, movements, and sequences required to successfully navigate the route. By taking the time to study the route before attempting it, climbers can optimize their movements and conserve energy.

Resting Techniques

Resting effectively during a climb can make a huge difference in a climber’s performance. Advanced climbers should be familiar with various resting techniques such as using knee bars, heel hooks, and hand jams to take breaks and shake out their arms. By incorporating strategic rests into their climbs, climbers can improve their endurance and overall performance.

Mental Preparation

Climbing at an advanced level requires not only physical strength and technical skill, but also mental toughness. Advanced climbers must be able to stay focused and maintain a positive mindset even when faced with challenging routes. Visualization techniques, breathing exercises, and mental rehearsal can all help climbers prepare mentally for difficult climbs and overcome any fears or doubts they may have.


In conclusion, indoor climbing is a challenging and rewarding sport that requires a combination of physical strength, mental focus, and technical skill. Advanced climbers have honed their techniques through practice and dedication, allowing them to tackle more difficult routes and push their limits. By incorporating the techniques discussed in this article, advanced climbers can continue to improve and progress in their climbing journey. Remember to always prioritize safety, listen to your body, and have fun while exploring the vertical world of indoor climbing. Happy climbing!